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Watercooling... Kit vs DYIWell I just read this and thought since the subject comes up alot in this forum that it would be good reading for all » www.overclockers.com/art ··· cles766/ |
actions · 2003-Aug-11 9:35 pm · (locked) |
BobarooAqua Teen Hunger Force 1 In The Hood, G Premium Member join:2002-04-14 Glen Rock, NJ |
Bobaroo
Premium Member
2003-Aug-11 11:27 pm
Sticky! Good Find Maranello |
actions · 2003-Aug-11 11:27 pm · (locked) |
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Heres another one for anyone interested in watercooling.... "Good overview of watercooling choices and information sources - The Rudy" » www.overclockers.com/art ··· cles769/ |
actions · 2003-Aug-12 8:51 am · (locked) |
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I'll sticky is for awhile. Then add it to the FAQ's But please post only watercooling related parts/articles. There were some past posts that had a lot of good watercooling related parts/articles maybe some of you can dig them up and post them in this thread for future reference. Thanks FastEddie |
actions · 2003-Aug-12 12:32 pm · (locked) |
NutCase4Mad Overclocker Premium Member join:2001-12-10 Livermore, CA |
to Maranello
Ok, Here are some Guides on Watercooling: » wc101.com/guides.php |
actions · 2003-Aug-12 11:05 pm · (locked) |
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actions · 2003-Aug-13 7:58 pm · (locked) |
BobarooAqua Teen Hunger Force 1 In The Hood, G Premium Member join:2002-04-14 Glen Rock, NJ |
to Maranello
this can be a good thread. |
actions · 2003-Aug-13 9:10 pm · (locked) |
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to Maranello
I hope to get into watercooling soon, thanks for the good links. Any caveats? |
actions · 2003-Aug-14 2:15 pm · (locked) |
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rkleinGod Among Hogs join:2001-01-18 Worcester, MA |
to Maranello
Cool thread! I just recently installed a Danger Den kit so I'm pretty hungry for watercooling info right now. Anyway, I found a nit to pick in this article by The Rudy. He writes regarding lapping the water block: Sand the block only ONE direction by placing the water block on the sandpaper, brush, then lift it off the paper. I used to do plenty of flat-lapping for a paycheck when I worked at Great Lakes-Eglinton (» www.greatlakeseglinton.com/) in Bridgeport, MI back in the 90s. The way I learned (and it works great for me) is to use a figure-eight motion when sanding/lapping, not a straight line in one direction. The Rudy's method will get you a nice shiny surface, but I doubt it'll get you a *flat* surface. That probably won't matter when you're just making contact across a very small area (e.g. the core of a Palamino Athlon XP) but could be important when you want contact across a large surface area (like a GPU). That's all for now. |
actions · 2003-Aug-18 6:40 pm · (locked) |
rklein |
to Maranello
Okay, another thing. A lot of the articles say to use distilled water because it's not electrically conductive. That's true...until any contaminants (e.g. dust, Water Wetter, glycol...) get into the water; then it becomes just as electrically conductive as tap water. De-ionized water is even purer than distilled water (I had a tough time finding hard facts about this, but apparently distilled water has gasses diluted in it that de-ionized water doesn't...not to mention the *ions* in distilled water ) but is actually *more corrosive* than distilled water in some situations. De-ionized water also has to be stored in special containers so it won't absorb gasses. It *will* absorb those gasses once it's in your water cooling rig, so, in practice, it makes no difference whether you use de-ionized or distilled water. The point is that either one has very little junk in it to clog your water block or radiator like the minerals in tap water would. |
actions · 2003-Aug-18 7:04 pm · (locked) |
noe1The Future Was Not What It Use To Be Premium Member join:2002-09-10 Charleston, WV |
to Maranello
The gases you refer to are mostly nitrogen, oxygen, carbon dioxide, helium, etc. In other words, air. Hard to keep that out of water, be it distilled, de-ionized, whatever. You can get CO2 + H2 = H2CO3 but the equilibrium is far to the left so not very corrosive. |
actions · 2003-Aug-24 2:02 pm · (locked) |