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SK87
The member formerly known as Cow
Premium Member
join:2001-05-18
Toronto

1 edit

SK87

Premium Member

Washer inlet tap leaking (incl. solution)

I posted this in the request forum but it got removed. Anyways, I just got around to it today and thought I should post it. I hope it doesn't violate the no posting IMs rule.

The problem was that I had recently changed my washer/dryer stack. The hot water tap was leaking when I would turn it on.

robbin was nice enough to send this message (thank you very much!)
said by Robbin :

I wanted to make sure you got the info I had posted. That should be an easy repair. I believe that you stated it leaks when it is on? If so down below the valve handle where the valve stem comes out of the valve body there is a nut that the stem goes through. This is called a packing nut and it compresses a washer underneith it. These washer valves don't get turned off for years.
So when they do get turned off and back on it is a pretty normal occurance for it to leak. Carefully stabalize the valve body with plyers or a cresent wrench and tighten up that nut. That should fix the leak.

Hope this is a help!

Robbin
When I turned on hot water tap, it sprayed for a second, then dripped a bit until I tightened the nut. I am monitoring drippage right now by placing toilet paper around it. So far (10 minutes) it's good. I have also left a bucket there for good measure. Still, I am not 100 % confident. Would putting that stretchy white plumber tape around the tap help? It's a big deal because I live in a condo and any water on floor = water on someone's ceiling.

MrFixitCT
pay it forward

join:2000-12-01
Port Charlotte, FL

1 edit

MrFixitCT

said by SK87:

Would putting that stretchy white plumber tape around the tap help?
Assuming the "stretchy white plumber tape" is teflon tape it's made to help seal between 2 threaded fittings and has no value in any application other than that.. Per the IM, tightening the nut will sometimes help, unless the packing under it is fully compressed already in which it wont do much. Under the nut you tightened is a waxed string-like material referred to as valve packing and is replaceable . You'd need to purchase a package of this "valve packing" from Home Depot or the like, it's really cheap. With valve shut off you can loosen and remove the handle, loosen and remove the brass nut previously tightened, dig out the old packing with something such as tweezers, cut a short length of new packing, my guess would be about 4 inches should do it. Wind this around the valve stem, press into void left when you cleaned out the old stuff. Reinstall the brass nut, need not be super-tight, reinstall handle, turn on water and check, tighten brass nut further if necessary..

SK87
The member formerly known as Cow
Premium Member
join:2001-05-18
Toronto

SK87

Premium Member

Thanks. I was really gung-ho about changing it but I couldn't find the water shut-off for these taps. Is there anything I can apply externally?

Greg_Z
Premium Member
join:2001-08-08
Springfield, IL

Greg_Z

Premium Member

No. Shut off would be either in the house/apartment, or would have to be done outside at the meter. There is no way to fix as an external solution.

SK87
The member formerly known as Cow
Premium Member
join:2001-05-18
Toronto

1 edit

SK87

Premium Member

Shut-off for bathroom taps and faucets are under their respective sinks, but I can't find the darned shut off for these.

I don't understand why I haven't asked the property manager yet! I'll ask him when I get around to it. (I'm guessing 3 more months)

Hall
MVM
join:2000-04-28
Germantown, OH

Hall to SK87

MVM

to SK87
said by robbin:

...the valve handle where the valve stem comes out of the valve body there is a nut that the stem goes through. This is called a packing nut and it compresses a washer underneith it. These washer valves don't get turned off for years. So when they do get turned off and back on it is a pretty normal occurance for it to leak.
On related notes to that, it doesn't hurt to simply close, then open, and repeat a couple of times, all of your shutoff valves to keep this problem from occuring. I've learned that just about anytime I have to replace a toilet part (flapper, float, etc) that requires shutting off the water to the toilet, that the valve will fail. So, when I buy the part I need, I also get a new shutoff.

bobrk
You kids get offa my lawn
Premium Member
join:2000-02-02
San Jose, CA

bobrk

Premium Member

On This Old House they've shown several different washer shutoffs both manual (shuts off both with one motion) and an electric one that you plug the washer into and it opens the valves when the washer turns on and shuts them off when it finishes. Has anybody tried either of these?

Greg_Z
Premium Member
join:2001-08-08
Springfield, IL

1 edit

Greg_Z

Premium Member

I have been thinking about it, but it means getting a MAPP gas torch, and actually doing some manual labor.

MrFixitCT
pay it forward

join:2000-12-01
Port Charlotte, FL

MrFixitCT to SK87

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said by SK87:

Thanks. I was really gung-ho about changing it but I couldn't find the water shut-off for these taps. Is there anything I can apply externally?

To replace the packing you don't need to have the supply shut off.. If the valve you are working on is shut then no water pressure reaches the packing area..

SK87
The member formerly known as Cow
Premium Member
join:2001-05-18
Toronto

1 edit

SK87

Premium Member

Oh! Thanks, that seems simple enough. I will do it tomorrow.

Pacrat
Old and Cranky
MVM
join:2001-03-10
Cortland, OH

1 edit

Pacrat

MVM

"Packing" thread looks like graphite-embedded heavy package string. You will get your hands "dirty" handling it. What I have seen comes in what amounts to a pill bottle. It's inexpensive... but a little messy to use. A few wraps around the valve stem (under the nut) should do the trick.

»www.doityourself.com/ica ··· tpacking

robbin
Mod
join:2000-09-21
Leander, TX

robbin

Mod

I wouldn't change it if it isn't leaking after tightning the packing nut. It didn't fail, it just wasn't compressed enough.

MrFixitCT
pay it forward

join:2000-12-01
Port Charlotte, FL

MrFixitCT

said by robbin:

I wouldn't change it if it isn't leaking after tightning the packing nut. It didn't fail, it just wasn't compressed enough.
agreed and true, as long as the packing nut wasn't already bottomed out.

Dennis
Mod
join:2001-01-26
Algonquin, IL

Dennis to SK87

Mod

to SK87
Well..it's not uncommon for them to start leaking after 10-15 years or so of non use. As said previously you could run around the house moving them.

But really in the end, a quarter twist on the valve nut usually takes care of it.

Caddyroger
Premium Member
join:2001-06-11
To the west

Caddyroger to Pacrat

Premium Member

to Pacrat
You can get your self a small bag of surgical gloves.They are not clumsy and you can do delicate work with them.

Shadow01
Premium Member
join:2003-10-24
Wasteland

Shadow01 to SK87

Premium Member

to SK87
A good practice to get into, is to shut off all your valves and turn them back on when you change the batteries in your smoke detectors. This will help keep the packing from getting hard and brittle.