Someone gave me a spool of cable and I have no clue what kind it is. Printed on the cabling it says 22 AWG. I attached a picture of the end. My knowledge of types of cable is limited.
I wouldn't be afraid to use it to wire speakers in another part of your house. Typically you run a 2 pair to a volume control in the room, and then run a single pair to each speaker. My home is done with 22AWG, and the longest run is probably 45'. It sounds great!
Depends on what you are using it for. If you're just trying to add some ambient sound around the house under 100'' it will be just fine. If you are trying to do anything where you care about sound quality it's going to be trash.
Uhhh talk about giving bad advice. Do NOT use that for speaker wire. Especially at longer distances.
Proof that it'll make someones house go up in flames? If you can find some I'll make sure to replace the wiring that has been installed (and working) in mine for the previous 18 years.
It's probably West Penn Wire, for audio or control purposes. I agree, it's best not to use shielded wire for speakers. Nothing to do with the house catching on fire, you just don't want a shield.
Well that's flat wrong, a shield won't hurt audio quality and may even improve it by preventing EMI/FRI from disrupting the signal over the most vulnerable part.
And you're not likely to start a fire unless you're using it for some really high powered sub, but 22awg won't likely give good quality.
While you don't need a shield for speaker wire, having one isn't going to harm anything.
The main area of concern with speaker wiring is resistance, which is greater for smaller wires and longer runs.
How much resistance is tolerable depends on the speaker impedance that is used. For low impedance speakers such as 4 ohms, the tolerable wire resistance is much less than a 16 ohm system.
Excessive resistance in the speaker wiring will decrease the audio output and also affect the damping factor of the system, which will alter the bass performance of the speaker somewhat.
I'm not sure how everyone else listens to music in other zones of their house, but I don't need ear bleeding 100% pure authentic sounds. Nine out of ten times all that is being played is music, or whatever sports I'm watching in the living room.
Zone 1 (Living Room): Amp direct to two Niles MP525's for rear surrounds. Zone 2 (My Bedroom): Amp to manual volume control to two Niles HD5's. Zone 3 (Office): Amp to manual volume control to two Niles MP525's. Zone 4 (Daughter's Room): Amp to manual volume control to Niles HD5's. Zone 5 (Pool Deck): Used to run from amp to manual volume control to a set of unknown Polk speakers, but they finally rotted apart. Will be sourcing new ones before summer. ** This is all powered using two Denon AVR-3310CI's.
The speakers that "peak" highest are the HD5's... at 100W PEAK how much do you actually think they're being driven at? At standard listening volumes maybe a few watts each? If I were to purchase wire to wire my home again would I use 22AWG? Probably not. If I needed to replace a damaged run and had 22AWG laying around? Certainly.
I don't know about you but I don't want some crazy central amp, but would rather each room be setup with its own audio.
An amp in every room? Your pockets are sure the heck a lot deeper than mine. You'd put an amp in a 7yo girls room? Where, exactly, would you put one for the pool deck? How should I rate quality on a space that will be flooded by the sounds of being outside, of kids splashing & screaming, and of people talking? You'd put an amp in your master bedroom just to lightly listen to music as you fall asleep, or as you're waking up? Do you even understand what zones are, and what role they fill?
Bose. Bose can turn background sounds/noises into music and bose has some powerful top grade stuff. This bose freespace 3 sub woof with just one black cube bose speaker i have is awesome and doesn't have cracking sounds or that blare crap where its loud but its faded.
Well that's flat wrong, a shield won't hurt audio quality and may even improve it by preventing EMI/FRI from disrupting the signal over the most vulnerable part.
Not true. A fully shielded cable has much higher capacitance to ground which acts as a low pass filter and attenuates the higher frequencies.
I used to be a Bose fanboy years ago... And I'm talking owning 901s as "standard" speakers, let alone all the other ones I had.
Not any more. Bose (many moons ago) used to be about quality and audio immersion, but that has all gone down the toilet. Now it's just cheap gear, branding, and following the walmart trends.
They are still good gear, don't get me wrong, but a lot more hype than quality now.
If you're looking for real quality, go into a store (Not a department store) and do a blind test with sound/music/etc that you know and like. You'll notice fast that Bose does not produce nearly as good sound as they claim. In the end, it's the sound that YOU like that is the best... But Bose delivers a very heavily "tainted" sound. It's not natural or clean by any means, it's Bose sound.
I won't preach the units I use now, because it's all subjective. Get what you truly like the sound of, and what fits the application you plan to use it in.
It's all about money with everyone. Something new and better comes out, people want it and not have a care in the world how expensive it is.
Money indeed talks but is it really necessary? Only if you want it to be. The more quality you're looking towards depends on the consumer.
I Know of someone who spent $27K on just one wood working machine that comes with all those bells and whistles. I have a friend that spent over $100 on a 4 foot HD cable for his really expensive HD flat screen television.
It's great and all but IMHO is not necessary unless of course you like to be a show off witch alot of people do.
