Rogers → Utility pole cleanup

There is a utility pole in the middle of the parents back yard that has a number of old cable lines hanging down it and laying on the ground. The various grandkids have been trying to climb the pole and swing off of them and they have gotten caught up in the lawnmore.

The pole also has steps on it down to the ground which is very temp for kids to climb and I would like the bottom 5 or so rungs removed like has been done to the other poles in the area. The Pole is stamped London cable tv company which is Rogers now.

Are these things Rogers will do? I tried getting them to do these things in the spring, but they never showed up.

Try this. Go this posting and look for responses from RogersMikeT. Select the icon to go to his profile and send him a message outlining the situation or send him a link to this post.

»[TV] CTV/WGN glitch

or call the rodgers 1800 number and report an unsafe utility poll which is hazardous (wires haning witch could be live) and let them dispatch a repair tech

It's a shared pole most likely, if you took pictures we could identify it's Rogers or Bells pole. If it has Bell on it, it's bells pole.
If it's just Rogers, it's Rogers pole.
Call 1888Rogers1 and tell them it is a safety hazard, it will be made "Safe", this may not be safe by your standards, but is by theirs.
This type of call does not require the tech check in with the customer, so if you want your concerns addressed you need to be there in the 2 hour Window you book the tech for, you need to be able to watch for the technician as he will not and will not be expected to seek out a customer.

Once you address your concerns, he will refer to maintenance most likely.

The hooks on the bottom should be 5' or so from the ground. The drops hanging off if it are the way they are based on any obstructions we deal with (obstructions=private property) when hanging a drop. We can't move a shed, a tree or a fence to get the drop hung to spec, technically customers shouldn't impede access to the pole, but they do.
We work with what we got, from where we can put a ladder.
Old drops don't get removed because of this, but I'm betting it can be tidied up even with the obstructions.

I'd love to see a picture of the pole and the ground around it.

Well thats a Bell terminal on the pole so Bell owns it. Youd have to call Bell to have the steps removed (which they may ignore) again, say it is dangerous, they have to roll a tech who will make it safe but our safe and your safe may be two different standards. As for the hanging wires those appear to be rogers.

Bell won't touch the Rodgers wires so calling bell will b a waist of time try calling Rodgers

I'd try calling them both, see by fluke if you can get them both within the same time frame.

Ya, as everyone is saying, Bells pole, Rogers wires.
You'd need to call both of us.

Regarding the wires.
You have a safety hazard on your property.
The wire as shown in the picture isn't connected to anything. You can clearly see an unterminated end.

Funny thing about those.
1. There's no more than 50V DC on that wire. So it's not a shock hazard. (Barring some ridiculous freak accident).
2. Anything unsafe on your property is something you can justify removing.
3. A good set of side cutters, or bolt cutters will cut right through that.

The unterminated cables will not go anywhere, feed no customers and are therefore for all purposes are dead drops.
Feel free to make your property safe if Bell/Rogers isn't doing so in a timely manner.

If you don't see an end though, that may mean the drop is in service, don't cut those.

The spurs however, are from the old days when we climbed poles, we don't really do that anymore.
You can really push on Bell to get them removed, but the reason they start at the height they do is because that was considered the safe install of them, Bell may not agree to get them removed, but they also don't use spurs anymore so if they got sawz alled off, I doubt bell would notice...

Yeah, what he said!

A side note, for #1, you could get electrocuted with ringing voltage at 120v AC if the line rings, but most likely they are all dead (like the rogers lines) cuz lines cut like that getting wet with water cause shorts and shorts cause problems connected directly to their "tap".

One other side note regarding the sawz-all... if you DO have bell come out and they refuse and come back later to find them gone.... that might not be the best situation....

Unless node power feeds are hanging or someone seriously screwed up the wiring... no line up there will exceed 50 VAC essentially. Which basically means no shock hazard based on the Canada electrical codes definition of class 2 circuits. (it's a bit more complicated than that, but that's the quick answer).

Cable and telephone are class 2 circuits that's why you don't need to be an electrician to work in telecom.

Not capable of a shock hazard.
(I know we can argue this, since we have all likely felt the sting from phone line before, but based on the CEC they are considered to not be a fire or shock hazard at their VA ratings).

Now the transformer connections before they are stepped down could be 120-600V but I don't see that tech up there.

Sorry. I was wrong, it's AC 90V approximately.

quote:

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Ringer

When the central office (CO) wants to signal an incoming call, it will connect an alternating current (AC) signal of roughly 90 volts to your circuit. This will cause the bell in your telephone to produce a ringing sound. (In electronic telephones, this ringer may be a small electronic warbler rather than a bell. Ultimately, a ringer can be anything that is capable of reacting to the ringing voltage; for example, strobe lights are often employed in noisy environments such as factories.)

Ringing voltage can be hazardous. Be very careful to take precautions when working with an in-service telephone line.

Many people confuse the AC voltage that triggers the ringer with the direct current (DC) voltage that powers the phone. Remember that a ringer needs an alternating current in order to oscillate (just as a church bell won't ring if you don't supply the movement), and you've got it.

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»www.asteriskdocs.org/en/ ··· T-1.html

OK.. long explanation.
Class 2 circuits can be up to 100v, but voltage doesn't really matter.

10,000V won't necessarily hurt you.
1v theoretically can kill you.

The current matters, Class 2 circuits don't carry enough amperage to hurt you.
100V but at the max amperage allowed by the CEC won't do much but buzz you.

[725.21(A)].Class 2 circuits. Class 2 circuits typically include wiring for low-energy (100VA or less), low-voltage (under 30V) loads such as low-voltage lighting, thermostats, PLCs, security systems, and limited-energy voice, intercom, sound, and public address systems. You can also use them for twisted-pair or coaxial local area networks (LAN) [725.41(A)(4)].
Class 2 circuits protect against electrical fires by limiting the power to 100VA for circuits that operate at 30V or less, and 0.5VA for circuits between 30V and 150V. You protect against electric shock by limiting the current of the circuit to 5mA or less for circuits between 30V and 150V [Chapter 9, Table 11].

If they don't respond just fix it your self. I've done this before where I had Coax and AT&T hanging off a pole in the back yard. I used a ladder and trimmed it where it was out of reach about 10' off the ground.

I didn't get a visit from the secret Comcast Police or the AT&T SWAT team.