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[motherboard] Question about Motherboard issue
oily/sticky substance |
I'm here to ask for input about something I just spotted while cleaning out my desktop PC. When I went to dust out the PC I noticed this area that looked litte damp on the motherboard. When I touched it with my finger it felt oily/sticky. What ever this oily/sticky substance is don't seem to effect the computer. I built this PC back in early 2015 which is the following specs below. I never used any form of water coolers on this PC. I been using the same heatsink since I built the PC. My question is the following. Is something I should not worry too much about it OR should I look at replacing the motherboard. I'm going to include a picture with the oily/sticky area marked in red. Also here in the link to the motherboard as well. » us.msi.com/Motherboard/9 ··· ING.htmlAMD FX 8320 Cool Master Hyper 212 Evo MSI 970 Gaming Motherboard GTX 660 TI 8GB DDR3 1333 memory Cool Master HAF XB Evo |
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| iAntigone |
While browsing on the internet I stumbled upon a post someone did on tomshardware back in 2014. Where this guy has the same MSI 970 gaming motherboard like me. Where he spotted stickiness right behind the North bridge.
Then another person made the following comment below. I checked the northbridge heatsink and it's not loose.
That's probably just some of the lacquer softening from the hot north bridge. Yes, they get hot normally. See if the heat sink is loose. I believe that model uses screws to hold it on rather than push pins. If the heat sink is loose, you'll have to remove the board and tighten the screws on the back of the board. |
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 norwegian
Premium Member
join:2005-02-15
Outback |
That sounds about right. What ever they coated it with has leaked. Here's a gigabyte picture showing what is under that heatsink. Or two: You can check all those capacitors (small cylinders) to see if they bulged or are swelling but they all look good. See below » www.capacitorlab.com/vis ··· ailures/ |
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I checked the solid capacitor's around the northbridge. As for as the capacitor's go I don't see anything wrong with them. I felt around the northbridge while PC is was on and it was not hot at all.
I'm just wondering if the oily/sticky substance is something to worry about. I been messing around with computers for a long time. This is the first time seeing this problem around the northbridge. |
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norwegian
Premium Member
join:2005-02-15
Outback |
Doing a google shows it seems to be a lot more specific to MSI motherboards and more so with that 970 board.
Maybe someone who has had one and knows can join in.
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I took my digital camera and took a better picture of the northbridge area. This new picture shows the area that is oily/sticky much better. |
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iAntigone
2 edits |
I have another question if someone can answer it for me. In my first post I forgot to say what power supply I'm using. I'll try to make it short as I can but some info needs to be said.
I'm currently using a Corsair HX750 PSU which is 750w. I bought this PSU back in Jan 2010 when I built a AMD phenom ii x4 965 back then. When I decided to build my current FX8320 system in 2015. I decided to reuse the PSU since it was still under warranty for another two years yet. Now let's forward to the year 2017. My Corsair 750w PSU lost it's warranty 7 months ago. When I bought the PSU it came with a 7 year warranty.
After I seen the problem around the northbridge on the mobo. I was checking somethings on the computer. I'm just not sure which info I should trust. When using the programs hwmonitor and aida64. Those two programs thinks the +12v rail is running hair over 13.7 volts. If that voltage was right I would think the Over-voltage protection on the PSU would have kicked in. But if I use the MSI command center software while using the PC. It says the +12v rail is running around 11.7 - 12.144 volts. If I go in the bios and check it also is reading 12.144 volts.
I decided to go ahead and replace the motherboard with a Asus motherboard that supports my FX8320 processor. I thought about replacing my 7 year old Corsair 750w PSU. I just like to know what you guys thought about all this. While currently the PC is working just fine. I'm just not sure if I can trust the current motherboard anymore with the oily/stickyness around the northbridge. That's why I decided to go ahead and replace it be for something does happen.
Then I got my current PSU which lost it's warranty 7 months ago. I'm just not sure which info to trust about the voltages the BIOS / MSI Command Center software OR hwmonitor / aida64. Would you guys replace a power supply just for being old ?
[UPDATE INFO] I think I know where this oily/stickyness area on the motherboard came from now. It from the cheap thermal pad MSI used for the MOSFET heatsink. The cheap stuff they used must have been silicone based. Which leaked on my motherboard. |
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| iAntigone |
Just going to stop using the desktop PC for now. Least I know cpu, gpu, memory, hdd, ssd still works. Guess I'll be stuck with my tablet PC for now. Least till I get the check that is owed me from a company. |
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norwegian
Premium Member
join:2005-02-15
Outback |
That picture does sound like its a 970 motherboard issue going by google.
Now would the oil help with carrying a voltage current?
You can clean it will alcohol or something of that nature and maybe even ask on how to remove clean and reapply paste if required, I've not touched those heatsinks.
On PSU voltage, I would trust bios readings before any software reading.
On a new motherboard it wouldn't hurt to buy a new PSU as it will have the correct power states for the new board and you always have the old one as back up.
It may go for another 5 to 7 years, who knows but it does get hit with your electrical surges before any other part in the box.
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I'm thinking about getting the ASUS 970 PRO GAMING/AURA motherboard. While it's still based on the 970 chipset it looks like it's built better. Looks like it uses 7+1 power phase on the motherboard
Unless someone else has another motherboard option that supports the FX8320 processor.
I know some people might just say why not upgrade to Ryzen. The truth is I might have $250 dollars max to spend and not a dime more. Really want a new motherboard for my FX8320. Then get a new PSU to replace my 7 year old one that seen ton of hard use over the years.
Once I get a new motherboard I'll take OFF the mosfet heatsink on the MSI mobo. Then see what type of damage was done where I cant see. Then see if I can do anything about it.
If at that point I can fix the MSI motherboard I'll just use it to test with. |
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2 recommendations |
Chrno
Member
2017-Aug-16 3:25 am
If you said the substance doesn't effect the operation of the board then why not just leave it? Whatever it is, it looks to be dielectric and it's not causing any harm. I mean otherwise your board would have been up in smoke a long time ago. The 900 series chipset is almost 7 years old and I think it's a total waste of money to get a replacement board at this point. I would say save up your money and wait for your next tax return to get something else. |
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4 edits |
I thought it did not effect the PC. But the truth is the CPU is being trottled down to 1700MHz. No matter how much stress I place on the CPU prime95 or what ever else. The CPU just won't go above 1700MHz on the cores. Checked the temp while in win10 and in bios they was 22c-27c range. I seen a video on this very same MSI 970 gaming motherboard. Turned out the oily/stickyness was from the thermal pad used on the heatsink for the MOSFET's. Which I think is silicone based which got hot enough to melt over the motherboard. Least from my searches on google looks like if MOSFET's overheats it can cause the CPU to throttle down. Just like it doing to me on my desktop PC. It's clear from the pics I posted there is a problem with the MOSFET part of the mobo. Since that's where the problem is located at. Right now I refuse to use the desktop PC cause I don't want to fry anything in the PC. Since the decktop PC did boot up and seemed to be working fine besides the CPU being throttled to death. Tells me the CPU, GPU, RAM, HDD, SSD is still works at least. On the side note looks like the PSU is still in good shape for being 7 years old. It just lost its warrenty 7 months ago. So it just looks like I just need a new motherboard. As someone who is on Social Security that has a strict limited income. It's very hard for me to come up with money to buy computer hardware. The only choice I got is to fix what I got since it's within my budget. I will have $250 dollars MAX to spend to fix my desktop PC. If all I need is a new motherboard I'm looking at these two. What you guys think is the better option ? ASUS TUF Sabertooth 990FX R3.0 » www.amazon.com/Motherboa ··· herboardASUS 970 PRO GAMING/AURA » www.newegg.com/Product/P ··· 13132713 |
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norwegian
Premium Member
join:2005-02-15
Outback |
I hear what Chrno is saying and its good advice.
Now do you get the cheap motherboard that will allow you to also look at an SSD?
But possibly the RAM may need checking for a new board.
Or leave everything as is and get the 990X which will allow that CPU to really be used and save up for an SSD later?
I'm not in your situation but understand lite on funds.
Both would be a toss up from where I sit.
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said by norwegian:I hear what Chrno is saying and its good advice.
Now do you get the cheap motherboard that will allow you to also look at an SSD?
But possibly the RAM may need checking for a new board.
Or leave everything as is and get the 990X which will allow that CPU to really be used and save up for an SSD later?
I'm not in your situation but understand lite on funds.
Both would be a toss up from where I sit. I all ready own a SSD which is 260gb in size. I currently have 8gb worth of DDR3 1366 memory (4 sticks total, each stick is 2gb). While I never took out the MSI motherboard from the PC yet. I'm all most positive it's a fault with the mosfet's. Maybe it's just the thermal pad that need's replaced. But since it's a really common problem with MSI 970 boards. I'll just replace it with something else and move on. I just like to know if the 990FX is over all better then the 970. What I got my eye on is the ASUS TUF Sabertooth 990FX R3.0 motherboard. |
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norwegian
Premium Member
join:2005-02-15
Outback |
It is "better" in a lot of ways.
But do you need it?
Maybe list some of the things you use the computer for and someone will let you know if your wasting money.
I had a good look at both and tried looking around and seen a few Asrock boards about but if you can get that 990FX board for that price it will match that CPU beautifully, but and a big but, the costs may out weigh what you need it for.
If it is just browsing and fiddling then near $100 can be saved by not buying it.
Maybe start by posting the series of that RAM before spending anything.
We have had no specs on it in this conversation and it might make a difference.
Is the RAM as old as this build too?
A little more detail on what you want from this will help others tell you if you are throwing money away seeing as it is your basic requirement to look after what you spend.
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1 edit |
said by norwegian:It is "better" in a lot of ways.
But do you need it?
Maybe list some of the things you use the computer for and someone will let you know if your wasting money.
I had a good look at both and tried looking around and seen a few Asrock boards about but if you can get that 990FX board for that price it will match that CPU beautifully, but and a big but, the costs may out weigh what you need it for.
If it is just browsing and fiddling then near $100 can be saved by not buying it.
Maybe start by posting the series of that RAM before spending anything.
We have had no specs on it in this conversation and it might make a difference.
Is the RAM as old as this build too?
A little more detail on what you want from this will help others tell you if you are throwing money away seeing as it is your basic requirement to look after what you spend. I'm a gamer at heart and have been been since the mid 80's. I enjoy playing games at 1080p at high settings. Just some of the games I play online are Rising Storm 2 Vietnam, Fortnite, FFXIV. Plan on getting Starwars Battlefront at some point. As for the memory I currently have 8gb worth of this DDR3 memory F3-10666CL8D-4GBHK. You can search newegg for that and find it very easy. Got some good news least I hope it ends good. I took electronics repair many years ago just to learn something. I took my desktop PC apart since I had nothing better to do. I tested my 7 year old corsair PSU with a digital voltmeter. All the voltages was still within spec's it should be so that's good. I took off the MOSFET heatsink from the motherboard and checked everything there. The thermal pad was still there and still looked in good shape. So while the heatsink was off I cleaned up the oily/stickyness best I could. Then reconnected the MOSFET heatsink and made sure it was snug. I then took off the Cool Master Hyper 212 Evo heatsink. So I could re-seat the processor and apply fresh thermal paste. I then reconnected the heatsink back on the motherboard. Then I thought I would turn the desktop on and check if it works. While using the program MSI command center software. I can now see the cores of the processor increasing in MHz to match the demand I'm placing on it. It was not doing that before I took the PC part to work on it. While it's seems to working fine now after taking it part like that. I'm just not sure if I can trust the motherboard in the long term anymore. What I thought about is going ahead and get the Asus 990FX motherboard I posted the link to. Then use my current DDR3 memory for now till I can get better memory. Looks like my current memory will work on the 990FX Asus motherboard I'm looking at for the time being. Then I'll look at replacing my current GTX 660 TI with something like a GTX 1050 TI. Once I get that all done my system spec should look something like this. FX8320 CoolMaster Hyper 212+ Evo Asus TUF Sabertooth 990FX R3.0 16GB DDR3 1866 memory GTX 1050 TI 260GB SSD 1TB HDD I think I could get ton of use from something like that. |
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norwegian
Premium Member
join:2005-02-15
Outback |
said by iAntigone:As for the memory I currently have 8gb worth of this DDR3 memory F3-10666CL8D-4GBHK. You can search newegg for that and find it very easy. That is on the QVL list if you upgraded the motherboard as you mentioned. said by iAntigone:Got some good news least I hope it ends good. I took electronics repair many years ago just to learn something. I took my desktop PC apart since I had nothing better to do. Good to hear from the end results it is clocking more reliably. See how it performs over the next week or 2. But think a bit on what you are doing. As Chrno pointed out you might want to slowly piece together a new system. The only thing from your updated build you are missing is a cPU. Now you can buy bits and pieces when specials are on and get a newer system. Still nothing wrong with that system you envision but just think about it a bit. |
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It would be least couple weeks anyways at the earliest. I can't do anything until I get the check a company owes me.
What has me worried is I got no clue where this oily/stickness came from. The caps on the motherboard looked to be OK by the naked eye at least. The thermal pad used on the MOSFET heatsink was still intact. which was the area the mess was located at.
What I could do if anything is go ahead and replace the motherboard with the Asus 990FX. Least then I will have piece in mind not having to worry about the PC for the time being.
Then I could start to save up for a new Ryzen PC. |
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1 edit |
to iAntigone
Normally when the VRMs fail, you will not be able to power on the board at all because they short out and either trip the short circuit protection or they just out right burn up. I have not seen a board with failed VRMs reduce the speed of the CPU. What's most likely your problem is the SLOW_MODE switch directly below the 24pin power header. This stupid switch is known to fail very frequently on MSI MBs (on both Intel and AMD) boards. Once the switch fails it would get stuck in the closed position even with the switch in the physical open position. This in turn forces the BIOS to lock the CPU multiplier to lowest one hence your low speed. The switch would some times randomly fix itself for a while then get stuck again. You can also some times fix it by rocking it back and forth. You can verify if the switch is at fault by switching it to the on position while the system is off and then turn it on to check the multiplier and core speed while in Windows.
Maybe try and disable "CPU Smart Protection" (this is the fix for Intel boards) in the BIOS and see if your core speed returns to normal. You can also try adjusting the multiplier manually to the correct value and see if that helps. Good luck |
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said by Chrno:Normally when the VRMs fail, you will not be able to power on the board at all because they short out and either trip the short circuit protection or they just out right burn up. I have not seen a board with failed VRMs reduce the speed of the CPU. What's most likely your problem is the SLOW_MODE switch directly below the 24pin power header. This stupid switch is known to fail very frequently on MSI MBs (on both Intel and AMD) boards. Once the switch fails it would get stuck in the closed position even with the switch in the physical open position. This in turn forces the BIOS to lock the CPU multiplier to lowest one hence your low speed. The switch would some times randomly fix itself for a while then get stuck again. You can also some times fix it by rocking it back and forth. You can verify if the switch is at fault by switching it to the on position while the system is off and then turn it on to check the multiplier and core speed while in Windows.
Maybe try and disable "CPU Smart Protection" (this is the fix for Intel boards) in the BIOS and see if your core speed returns to normal. You can also try adjusting the multiplier manually to the correct value and see if that helps. Good luck What was odd was the bios screen was reading the FX8320 at it's stock speeds of 3.50 GHz. When I checked system info within windows 10 it also said 3.50 GHz. But at the time for some reason the CPU cores was being stuck at 1700MHz. But after removing the mosfet heatsink and cleaning up the mess. Reconnecting it and made sure it was a snug fit. Then applying new CPU thermal paste just for the hell of it. Even though it did not need it replaced. Besides doing those two things I done nothing else to the system. But now the CPU cores seems to be working at there stock speed they should be. What's driving me nuts is I can't figure out where this mess on the motherboard came from. |
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